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Cleaned the rest of the filter head as best I could with brake cleaner, brush.ĩ. Did this by spraying into one of the four holes exposing the spring, let sit 10 minutes. Soaked the Oil Pressure Valve in Brake cleaner. Removed Oil Pressure Adjustment Valve in entirety (largest nut only) to preserve factory adjustment with impact wrench.ħ. Removed relief valve, spring, ball, and cleaned with brake cleaner.
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Then I used a dental pick to pull it out.
#Triumph tr3a fuel sending unit free
I carefully used a very small chisel to free the sides of the rubber seal from the aluminum, being careful not to scratch it. Thoroughly cleaned the Purolator Filter Head Some research shows thise part numbers are HP2009 K&N, or 51516 WIX, or PH3600 Fram oil filter.Ĥ. The adapter only lists Moss part numbers. Would not want to try to remove the rubber gasket with it in place.ģ. Put catch pan under filter, loosened 9/16 bolt in end of OEM filter bowl, loosened bowl just enough to let the oil drain into pan. You should now have a total of 1/8 toe in.ĭon’t expect this to be hard, just documenting that I did it.Ģ.
#Triumph tr3a fuel sending unit drivers
Repeat the previous step for the drivers side.ġ3. Turn the tie rod adjuster until it moves 1/16″ and tighten the adjuster nuts. Starting from 0 toe in, to set 1/8″ toe in, place a scale on the clamp bar so that the carpenters square serves as a pointer. If you have quite a bit you should evaluate whether you have bent or worn components per the service manual. If you did all the steps, including set the tie rods to 7 22/33, you should have no toe in/out. You should now have the distance between the ends of the bar clamps at the front of the tires. Roll the car forwards so the tire rotates 180 degrees, the clamp bar end pointing forwards.ĩ. You should now have for the rear of the tires, the distance between the ends of the bar clamps marked on the measuring bar.Ĩ. Passenger side: repeat the previous step, except create the mark at the exact center of the measuring bar. Use a small square to do this as pictured.ħ. Align a mark on the measuring bar to the outer end of the bar clamp. Drivers side: Put a Carpenter’s square parallel to the measuring bar, on the exact middle of the measuring bar. Put a square and true (won’t rock or wobble) measuring bar on the flat floor, pressed against the rear of the tire, so that the bar protrudes beyond each end of the bar clamp.Ħ. However, the measuring process should take care of any deviation from square.ĥ. Put bar clamps on both front wheels at 9 o’clock as square as you can with the tail end of the clamp to the rear. Put the car in a spot on the flat floor where you can push the car forward 1/2 wheel rotation.Ĥ. This should give me parallel alignment, no toe in.ģ. And I found a pair of dividers was perfect for this, putting the points on the center marks of the grease fittings. I actually used 7 22/32 which is close at 7.687500. Set both tie rod assemblies to about 7.68″ between grease fittings. Care also needs to be taken that the wheel is at the 9 and 3 oclock positions.ġ. Care does need to be taken when marking the positions on the measuring bar, as this is an opportunity for measuring error. The fact that the clamp stays affixed to the wheel as it turns and measurements are taken from the very outermost point of the bar clamp end should keep all the variables out of the equation even if the clamp is a little out of square.
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The idea is to put bar clamps on each wheel, and measure the distance between the ends of the clamps as the tires rotate 180 degrees. So I came up with a way that should have only one potential point of measuring error, everything else staying fixed. I looked at various methods like the string method and did not like the multiple opportunities for measuring errors. So I have removed, rebuilt, reinstalled the front suspension.